Here’s a Splash of Mink blocking away. All the knitting is finished at last and once she’s dry I can start the sewing up. Must say, I really do think I should get some blocking wires…
And a close up – no lifelines used during the making of this, no counting mistakes that I’m aware of. It all went rather smoothly, which of course is getting me nervous!
So what’s next? How about Stephen West’s Meadowbrook? A couple of small changes – pattern calls for sport weight yarn, but I’m using Paloma which is a Bulky weight. This throws out the stitch count (I want a scarf not a shawl!) I’m also likely going to use a different cable pattern, mainly because of the bulky weight yarn, I want something that’s quite defined.
I’m very proud of my cast on – look at that neat lovely edge there. I found some instructions on a forum site which in turn are apparently from Reader’s Digest Knitter’s Handbook - this is them ::
- With a contrasting, slippery waste yarn, cast on half the number of stitches required using any method. Round down if necessary (e.g., half of 31 sts is 15.5, round down to 15).
- Purl one row
- Knit one elongated row (wrap each stitch twice instead of once, and drop the extra wraps on the next row).
- Switch to the main yarn, and work four rows in stockinette, beginning with a purl row. If you had to round down your cast on sts, inc 1 in the first row of stockinette.
- With a thinner needle, pick up the loops of your main yarn that show through the wrong side of the elongated contrast stitches. So, you have your regular needle loaded with stitches, and a thinner needle lying in front of it in the same direction with an equal number of stitches.
- *P2 from the regular needle, K2 from the thinner needle* to end of row. If you end up with one st on each needle, you can P from the big needle and then P from the thin needle. Continue working your 2×2 rib as usual.
- Snip one end of the contrast yarn and pick it out. The main yarn will not unravel.